Monday, July 21, 2008
Monday, July 14, 2008
just a quickie from the İzmir area coast
my time is coming to a close here
i am near İzmir near the beautıful green sea - it is chilly and yet the sun is very strong - lots of walking uphill which is good to work off all the delicious food i have been eating
the greek isles are said to be across the way
today i wıll be ın Ephesus
i am lookıng forward to that
i will be heading to the airport really really early wednesday morning - 3am or so
i will post pictures when i return before leaving for DC
i am near İzmir near the beautıful green sea - it is chilly and yet the sun is very strong - lots of walking uphill which is good to work off all the delicious food i have been eating
the greek isles are said to be across the way
today i wıll be ın Ephesus
i am lookıng forward to that
i will be heading to the airport really really early wednesday morning - 3am or so
i will post pictures when i return before leaving for DC
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Last Day in Istanbul - Bursa - Bday
My last day in Istanbul was fascinating - starting off with the great massive breakfast at the hotel and then off I went to Sophia - a short walk from the hotel. I trotted on up there and marveled at the frescoes and the true mixture of East and West. So funny to see massive christian frescoes - virgin mary - jesus - etc. mixed with tiles and the cool arabic script - there were a few stained glass windows. I was awed by textures and colors and so my pictures consist of this.
On my way back to meet Zeynep, I stopped to get my name and "accesstango" in arabic script lettering - had a nice conversation with this man who was a calligrapher all his life and so was his father - very very cool!!!!
Then Zeynep and I went across the way from the hotel to have some food and wait for the time to go to the boat we would take to Bursa. We sat outside on the terrace overlooking the Marmara. As we walked in the music playing was "Por una cabeza"! Irfan met us there and in the middle of our meal - or maybe towards the end he asked me to dance - there was some Turkish/Armenian type music playing and he cleared out a table and in our sneakers we danced! Totally fun!
Zeynep and I took a cab to another Boat/Ferry "station" and hopped on! We arrived in Bursa (or close to it) and Olca (Oljai), Z's other cousin picked us up. She lives in a really nice apartment on the 18th floor looking out over the city and to the mountains. Jamie and Afet had missed their transport and arrived later. We ate out on the porch and slept in!
Today we went into Bursa and wandered around. We went to a small "costume" museum - more like "what our ancestors wore" museum - very very cool! There was a pomegranite tree, plum and fig and grape vine - all waiting to ripen for the fall!
We then went to Bursa's version of the Grand Bizarre - All this shopping is crazy - and since this is the place for textiles - can we say beautiful silk!!!!! OH my goodness....
We left and traveled about 1 hour out of Bursa towards the coast to have fish on the water. What a great restaurant...
it''s now super late - and i'm super tired and we are supposed to wake up super early to run off to Izmir by car ... I don't know how much of an opportunity I will have to internet so I'll have to catch up maybe when I return - we'll see...
I have really enjoyed my trip - all the sights, smells, tastes - I"m SO FULL!
On my way back to meet Zeynep, I stopped to get my name and "accesstango" in arabic script lettering - had a nice conversation with this man who was a calligrapher all his life and so was his father - very very cool!!!!
Then Zeynep and I went across the way from the hotel to have some food and wait for the time to go to the boat we would take to Bursa. We sat outside on the terrace overlooking the Marmara. As we walked in the music playing was "Por una cabeza"! Irfan met us there and in the middle of our meal - or maybe towards the end he asked me to dance - there was some Turkish/Armenian type music playing and he cleared out a table and in our sneakers we danced! Totally fun!
Zeynep and I took a cab to another Boat/Ferry "station" and hopped on! We arrived in Bursa (or close to it) and Olca (Oljai), Z's other cousin picked us up. She lives in a really nice apartment on the 18th floor looking out over the city and to the mountains. Jamie and Afet had missed their transport and arrived later. We ate out on the porch and slept in!
Today we went into Bursa and wandered around. We went to a small "costume" museum - more like "what our ancestors wore" museum - very very cool! There was a pomegranite tree, plum and fig and grape vine - all waiting to ripen for the fall!
We then went to Bursa's version of the Grand Bizarre - All this shopping is crazy - and since this is the place for textiles - can we say beautiful silk!!!!! OH my goodness....
We left and traveled about 1 hour out of Bursa towards the coast to have fish on the water. What a great restaurant...
it''s now super late - and i'm super tired and we are supposed to wake up super early to run off to Izmir by car ... I don't know how much of an opportunity I will have to internet so I'll have to catch up maybe when I return - we'll see...
I have really enjoyed my trip - all the sights, smells, tastes - I"m SO FULL!
Thursday, July 10, 2008
SUPERSTAR!
my time in istanbul is running out quickly - and there is still so much to see and do... NO REALLY - there is!
On Tuesday Yrfan took me to the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market - wow - talk about overwhelming....
That night there was a lesson at TangoJean that Yrfan was teaching at 7:30pm and I asked him if i could come to watch. So as we arrived and he was preparing he says to me - put on your shoes... OK!
In a nutshell with the help of his assistant who translated I assisted him in teaching the class. Then before the milonga we performed to Di Sarli and I did take video. I felt like a superstar!
What a year! January's dancing in Buenos Aires for TeTe's birthday with Isaac, then in Houston with Jason and now in Turkey with Yrfan = totally cool!!!
I thought the level of the class was low and the material was too complicated but that's ok - his class - his students - but it was interesting anyway...
Today we're off to Bursa and then to Izmir - more boats and cars and more pictures....
Yesterday I did a Bosphorous Tour with Afet and Jamie (Zeynep's friend from ASU but who lives in London now) - Bosphorous "Tour" -= basically means another boat for 10TRY that takes you along the Bosphorous - not sure about the "tour" part! there was no telling us what was what - really nice trip though.
Then we ate at a fish restaurant that we took a boat to - overlooking the water...
hope to find more time soon to write!
On Tuesday Yrfan took me to the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market - wow - talk about overwhelming....
That night there was a lesson at TangoJean that Yrfan was teaching at 7:30pm and I asked him if i could come to watch. So as we arrived and he was preparing he says to me - put on your shoes... OK!
In a nutshell with the help of his assistant who translated I assisted him in teaching the class. Then before the milonga we performed to Di Sarli and I did take video. I felt like a superstar!
What a year! January's dancing in Buenos Aires for TeTe's birthday with Isaac, then in Houston with Jason and now in Turkey with Yrfan = totally cool!!!
I thought the level of the class was low and the material was too complicated but that's ok - his class - his students - but it was interesting anyway...
Today we're off to Bursa and then to Izmir - more boats and cars and more pictures....
Yesterday I did a Bosphorous Tour with Afet and Jamie (Zeynep's friend from ASU but who lives in London now) - Bosphorous "Tour" -= basically means another boat for 10TRY that takes you along the Bosphorous - not sure about the "tour" part! there was no telling us what was what - really nice trip though.
Then we ate at a fish restaurant that we took a boat to - overlooking the water...
hope to find more time soon to write!
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
TOURING AROUND
So yesterday - Yrfan came to get me here at the hotel at 11am. We took the motorcycle to Galata Tower for a great panoramic view of the city.
Then we went to Topkapi and wandered through this amazing layout of buildings and gardens. They had a bunch of bowls and platters on display from the Ming and Qing dynasties - i really enjoyed seeing all the variances. I took a picture of some really beautiful pink bowls - they were so unusual surrounded by all the blue and white china!
It was individual pricing for the palace and the Harem. I considered getting an audio guide but didn't want to be rude! I think I would if I chose to go back. It took awhile to wander around the whole place - really tiring. I took a ton of pictures and alot of pics of ceilings! I won't know which ceiling came from where! Oh well - i really enjoyed the tiles on all the walls and all the different combinations of walls, ceilings, etc.
The Turks have the option to buy a Museum pass per year that allows them go to all museums for free or discounts of some kind. NICE option.
The entrance fees were about 10TRY about $8.
After Topkapi Yrfan took me to Eminonu, for some Balak Ekmek with Tushu - I doubt that's how you spell it but it's how i remember how to say it! WHAT IS THAT? It's this typical fish inside bread with a side of pickled pickles and cabbage. Right there on the water there are these funny boats with men frying what looks like Mackerel putting it inside very large bread with lettuce and onions. You buy this for 4 TRY. There are people all over this area as it is the sea bus/ferry port area and so there are these little tables and stools and you pile in there inhale your Balak Ekmek and then you leave and they wipe off your table and pile the next one in. It was interesting. Not bad - although i burped and smelled of fish for hours afterwards!
Last night there was a milonga in the hotel we're staying at - this was fun - didn't have to leave the hotel - i like things like this!!! Anyway - it seems pretty well attended. Ran into more people I knew and danced with someone from Sweden and Madrid.... Tango is so international!!!
Today i think there is more adventures around town and possibly a milonga at TangoJean....
I have had many impressions and I think my analytical brain is trying to make sense of certain things. I'm also just allowing ideas to come and go and not hang onto them for too long...
Then we went to Topkapi and wandered through this amazing layout of buildings and gardens. They had a bunch of bowls and platters on display from the Ming and Qing dynasties - i really enjoyed seeing all the variances. I took a picture of some really beautiful pink bowls - they were so unusual surrounded by all the blue and white china!
It was individual pricing for the palace and the Harem. I considered getting an audio guide but didn't want to be rude! I think I would if I chose to go back. It took awhile to wander around the whole place - really tiring. I took a ton of pictures and alot of pics of ceilings! I won't know which ceiling came from where! Oh well - i really enjoyed the tiles on all the walls and all the different combinations of walls, ceilings, etc.
The Turks have the option to buy a Museum pass per year that allows them go to all museums for free or discounts of some kind. NICE option.
The entrance fees were about 10TRY about $8.
After Topkapi Yrfan took me to Eminonu, for some Balak Ekmek with Tushu - I doubt that's how you spell it but it's how i remember how to say it! WHAT IS THAT? It's this typical fish inside bread with a side of pickled pickles and cabbage. Right there on the water there are these funny boats with men frying what looks like Mackerel putting it inside very large bread with lettuce and onions. You buy this for 4 TRY. There are people all over this area as it is the sea bus/ferry port area and so there are these little tables and stools and you pile in there inhale your Balak Ekmek and then you leave and they wipe off your table and pile the next one in. It was interesting. Not bad - although i burped and smelled of fish for hours afterwards!
Last night there was a milonga in the hotel we're staying at - this was fun - didn't have to leave the hotel - i like things like this!!! Anyway - it seems pretty well attended. Ran into more people I knew and danced with someone from Sweden and Madrid.... Tango is so international!!!
Today i think there is more adventures around town and possibly a milonga at TangoJean....
I have had many impressions and I think my analytical brain is trying to make sense of certain things. I'm also just allowing ideas to come and go and not hang onto them for too long...
Catch up - abit of Saturday wanderings and other sights
So I think I left off a few days ago.
I went to visit the "Blue Mosque" Sultan Ahmet Camii on my wanderings on Saturday. I couldn't decide if I wanted to go to Sophia or Topkapi or Blue Mosque and as I stumbled about I was overwhelmed by the crowds so I aimed for the Sultan Ahmet Camii. The outside is contains a large courtyard which had some shade and a breeze. There was an entrance for "visitors" around the corner, a sign on how to behave, which included being quiet, taking off your shoes, etc. So I amble my way into the entrance which asks you to cover up as well. So I took off my shoes and placed them in my bag took out my gift from Afet and placed it over my head and put my long sleeved shirt on. I wondered if the part of wearing a skirt was going to imposed. There were 2 men (1 really young man and an older gentleman) who were passing out long or large blue pieces of material. I gestured to him if i looked ok and he took my hand and said - yes ok. I managed a thank you and went it.
I was struck with a little tingling sensation as I entered. Then by foot odor and the amount of people sitting down all over the place. It is 1 large room with a wooden barrier placed for those visitors and those who worship to enter. IT was awfully loud in there for asking to be quiet. There were some tours being conducted in english and in italian and some of those ladies were NOT wearing any head coverings. My camera battery died in the middle of taking some initial pictures and so I backed up to experience the awesomeness of this architectural presence and i was struck with sadness, when I turned and noticed that i was standing in front of the WOMEN onky section of the mosque. An enclosed area at the rear with benches on the outside for shoes and inside some women hanging out some in genuflection praying. There was a feeling of chaos for an active mosque and it seemed strange at the time. I really was struck by the beauty of it.
There was the Istanbul Tango Festival's milonga in Haydarpasa Gari (train station) - this was on Saturday night - it was crowded, chaotic and a bit disorganized. (I guess that's what happens when you have a milonga in an active train station!) I did manage to see people i knew from other parts of the world: Santiago and his girlfriend, Eva, Nelusha, Ari... tango is such a small world!!! I didn't dance but 1 song of a tanda but did see Chicho and Juana perform and videotaped it. They looked really good. It was so so hot and humid in there too. It was good to observe. I also saw, whom I refer to as, The Turkish Brothers - i saw them perform in buenos aires in december (maybe?).
Sunday during the day Zeynep and I were driven, by Yrfan, about 1 hour outside of Istanbul to Rumelifeneri - we drove along the coast through Bebek and Sariyer. We were on one of the northern most points where the Bosphorous meets the Black Sea. AWWW - it was so nice. We had a snack and took pictures and chatted. Sunday was the beginning of Zeynep's conference so we rushed back just in time for her to begin that!!!
Yrfan waited for me as I changed and he took me with him to see the Tango Show that was part of the Festival - this was Chicho and Arce's "creation". It was called something like "Exodo" - anyway - it was about 45 minutes of dancing tango non stop more or less - the lighting was weird and not conducive to the dancing, the dancing was expected to be great and it was but what the heck were they dancing about?
NOW coming from a person who has definitely made dances about "nothing" more than spatial concepts or design elements i"m not asking for a story but something to hang onto. There was the duet between Mariana and Juana and there were a lot of reaching gestures and sitting in their short dresses in a wide second position UGH! some developpe's (extensions of the leg) but i had no idea why they were on stage together and doing this?
There was some nice spatial ideas - there were times that i thought they were supposed to be in unison and they weren't (on purpose?). some of it looked over-acted - i don't want to be acted to - be it - show it to me. The music sounded like - now it's playing not it's stopped now it's playing now it's turned off. Really abrupt transitions with the sound. There was an interesting mix of music. There was 1 transition where each one of them carries a chair onto the stage - it hand a funeral weightedness to it - ugh...
I spoke to Santiago last night and he actually saw bits of a story line - hmm - good for him! Wish i could have grasped that might have helped me along. Mariana punches too much so she looks like a caricature on stage. Everyone else needed to rise to her level her she needed to tone down. Again some clever moments but needing some serious shaping and rehearsal directing. So many of these tango dancers need a really good choreography class - man... it would help them so much...
I went to visit the "Blue Mosque" Sultan Ahmet Camii on my wanderings on Saturday. I couldn't decide if I wanted to go to Sophia or Topkapi or Blue Mosque and as I stumbled about I was overwhelmed by the crowds so I aimed for the Sultan Ahmet Camii. The outside is contains a large courtyard which had some shade and a breeze. There was an entrance for "visitors" around the corner, a sign on how to behave, which included being quiet, taking off your shoes, etc. So I amble my way into the entrance which asks you to cover up as well. So I took off my shoes and placed them in my bag took out my gift from Afet and placed it over my head and put my long sleeved shirt on. I wondered if the part of wearing a skirt was going to imposed. There were 2 men (1 really young man and an older gentleman) who were passing out long or large blue pieces of material. I gestured to him if i looked ok and he took my hand and said - yes ok. I managed a thank you and went it.
I was struck with a little tingling sensation as I entered. Then by foot odor and the amount of people sitting down all over the place. It is 1 large room with a wooden barrier placed for those visitors and those who worship to enter. IT was awfully loud in there for asking to be quiet. There were some tours being conducted in english and in italian and some of those ladies were NOT wearing any head coverings. My camera battery died in the middle of taking some initial pictures and so I backed up to experience the awesomeness of this architectural presence and i was struck with sadness, when I turned and noticed that i was standing in front of the WOMEN onky section of the mosque. An enclosed area at the rear with benches on the outside for shoes and inside some women hanging out some in genuflection praying. There was a feeling of chaos for an active mosque and it seemed strange at the time. I really was struck by the beauty of it.
There was the Istanbul Tango Festival's milonga in Haydarpasa Gari (train station) - this was on Saturday night - it was crowded, chaotic and a bit disorganized. (I guess that's what happens when you have a milonga in an active train station!) I did manage to see people i knew from other parts of the world: Santiago and his girlfriend, Eva, Nelusha, Ari... tango is such a small world!!! I didn't dance but 1 song of a tanda but did see Chicho and Juana perform and videotaped it. They looked really good. It was so so hot and humid in there too. It was good to observe. I also saw, whom I refer to as, The Turkish Brothers - i saw them perform in buenos aires in december (maybe?).
Sunday during the day Zeynep and I were driven, by Yrfan, about 1 hour outside of Istanbul to Rumelifeneri - we drove along the coast through Bebek and Sariyer. We were on one of the northern most points where the Bosphorous meets the Black Sea. AWWW - it was so nice. We had a snack and took pictures and chatted. Sunday was the beginning of Zeynep's conference so we rushed back just in time for her to begin that!!!
Yrfan waited for me as I changed and he took me with him to see the Tango Show that was part of the Festival - this was Chicho and Arce's "creation". It was called something like "Exodo" - anyway - it was about 45 minutes of dancing tango non stop more or less - the lighting was weird and not conducive to the dancing, the dancing was expected to be great and it was but what the heck were they dancing about?
NOW coming from a person who has definitely made dances about "nothing" more than spatial concepts or design elements i"m not asking for a story but something to hang onto. There was the duet between Mariana and Juana and there were a lot of reaching gestures and sitting in their short dresses in a wide second position UGH! some developpe's (extensions of the leg) but i had no idea why they were on stage together and doing this?
There was some nice spatial ideas - there were times that i thought they were supposed to be in unison and they weren't (on purpose?). some of it looked over-acted - i don't want to be acted to - be it - show it to me. The music sounded like - now it's playing not it's stopped now it's playing now it's turned off. Really abrupt transitions with the sound. There was an interesting mix of music. There was 1 transition where each one of them carries a chair onto the stage - it hand a funeral weightedness to it - ugh...
I spoke to Santiago last night and he actually saw bits of a story line - hmm - good for him! Wish i could have grasped that might have helped me along. Mariana punches too much so she looks like a caricature on stage. Everyone else needed to rise to her level her she needed to tone down. Again some clever moments but needing some serious shaping and rehearsal directing. So many of these tango dancers need a really good choreography class - man... it would help them so much...
Saturday, July 5, 2008
TANGOJEAN MILONGA - JULY 4
Very interesting- Zeynep and I took a cab to Taksim to the district where this milonga is. OH MY Gosh - this particular pedestrian street was PACKED with people - it was after 11pm and it was like Times Square at New Year's (just hotter).
We made our way to this recommended milonga - TangoJean - to meet the host Yrfan.
We arrived to this building that reminded me of some of the buildings in Boston and took the elevator to the 2nd floor, where we came out onto a small "bar" scene - with a really nice dark wooden floor. It was 17.50 YTL consumption - is that english? The cover charge was included in the request that you buy drinks. So i had 4 cups of Rooibus tea and 3 bottle of water!!!! Anyway
the scene was bleak and someone informed Zeynep that there was the Istanbul Tango Festival going on -
HOW did I not know this?
ugh..
anyway -
Yrfan and I had fun dancing and I also danced with a guy named Kadir - 4 tandas and around 2am we left.
The Turkish hospitality that i kept hearing about - aside from Zeynep's more than generous family hosting - presented itself with Yrfan offering to take me around to the sights and to meet Zeynep and I for drinks another time. He spoke only Turkish but the dancing was fun!!!!
so tonite i think we're going to go to one of the milongas that is a part of the festival at a train station.
Zeynep is off today with her cousins and i'm doing this blog - it's probably around 1:30pm and I think i will head out to wander around - I think it will be easier for me to navigate now that i'm here in the historic district. I hope the language thing gets a little easier!
Maybe a nap in store for me as well!
We made our way to this recommended milonga - TangoJean - to meet the host Yrfan.
We arrived to this building that reminded me of some of the buildings in Boston and took the elevator to the 2nd floor, where we came out onto a small "bar" scene - with a really nice dark wooden floor. It was 17.50 YTL consumption - is that english? The cover charge was included in the request that you buy drinks. So i had 4 cups of Rooibus tea and 3 bottle of water!!!! Anyway
the scene was bleak and someone informed Zeynep that there was the Istanbul Tango Festival going on -
HOW did I not know this?
ugh..
anyway -
Yrfan and I had fun dancing and I also danced with a guy named Kadir - 4 tandas and around 2am we left.
The Turkish hospitality that i kept hearing about - aside from Zeynep's more than generous family hosting - presented itself with Yrfan offering to take me around to the sights and to meet Zeynep and I for drinks another time. He spoke only Turkish but the dancing was fun!!!!
so tonite i think we're going to go to one of the milongas that is a part of the festival at a train station.
Zeynep is off today with her cousins and i'm doing this blog - it's probably around 1:30pm and I think i will head out to wander around - I think it will be easier for me to navigate now that i'm here in the historic district. I hope the language thing gets a little easier!
Maybe a nap in store for me as well!
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